Robert Parker im Forum zu den abgefüllten 2011-er Bordeaux;
The 2011 Bordeaux wines are in bottle and about to be released on the market. I’ve tasted approximately 750 of them in the past three days, clocking around 10 hours each day. As always, I tasted alone, assisted, in this case, by three sommeliers opening and clearing in an adjacent room. And, as always, I said nothing to anyone while tasting other than inviting the somms to take the super-rare and expensive bottles (like Le Pin, Petrus, etc.,) home for an opportunity to taste. (To be clear, it wasn’t three days of Petrus tastings; about 300 - 400 of the bottles were petits châteaux and Crus Bourgeois.)
While being holed up for days like this is not everyone’s cup of tea, it is, in my opinion, the absolute finest way in which to evaluate an entire vintage. The only difference is rather than doing the 10-hour days in the region (as I typically do), this year circumstances demanded that I have the bottled 2011 Bordeaux wines airfreighted over to the US. I have just come off four weeks of travel and my spinal rehabbing schedule (fun, fun, fun!) does not allow me to get to Bordeaux this year until late May.
By the way, I am far from alone among wine critics in tasting 75 to as many as 250 wines per day on occasion (though I wouldn’t want to do it everyday!) Professional wine critics as well as professional oenologists (the late Emile Peynaud, Michel Rolland, Pascal Ribereau, Gayon, etc.,) who do so will tell you: it isn’t some magic trick. All it takes is plenty of rest, a willingness to put in very long, arduous hours, a tolerance for methodical work, an ability to stay mentally focused and a keen knowledge of your limitations. And water…lots of water.
Even when the demands of the job are a bit grueling, I’m having a ball doing what I love and am incredibly fortunate to have been doing so for 35 years. I suppose that the credibility you have lent me over that time says far more about my tasting methodology than anything I could write here.
Stay tuned for my 2011 Bordeaux report. The vintage was priced too high, but some very good wines were produced in Graves/Pessac-Leognan, Pomerol, and St. Emilion; and they are drinkable now. It is clearly a drinker’s rather than a speculator’s vintage, but they cost too much.